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Due to damage caused by early spring frost, it's essential to perform plastic pruning on grapevines in areas where the climate is cold and the vines are buried. However, improper winter pruning can negatively affect vine health and productivity. To ensure effective pruning, several key considerations should be taken into account.
First, when making cuts, it's important to protect the buds that remain. Cut 3 to 4 centimeters above the bud, and if the internodes are short, make the cut just before the bud. The cut should be smooth and clean to avoid cracking, which could hinder bud development and growth.
When selecting branches to keep, leave some spars to maintain balance and structure. Remove smaller branchlets from the base, and if branches are sparse, shorten them slightly. These shortened branches should be pruned again the following year. Also, avoid creating continuous wounds on the vine, as this can interfere with the natural flow of nutrients and water within the plant.
Avoid making cuts near the main trunk or central cane, especially when thinning out the main vine. This helps preserve the vine’s strength and prevents unnecessary stress.
The length of each cut should be determined based on the vine’s maturity and growth potential. Ensure that there is enough space for future growth, and keep the vines in place long enough to fill the trellis quickly. For varieties with high growth rates but low basal shoot development, medium-length cuts are ideal. For slower-growing varieties or those with a high fruiting rate at the base, use medium- to short-length cuts to encourage balanced growth.
Branch renewal is also crucial. If using single branch regeneration, prune short shoots from the mother shoots without leaving any backup branches. In the second year, new shoots will grow from these mother shoots, and the lower inflorescences can be used as preparation branches. During winter pruning, remove the resulting shoots and trim the shoots on the preparation branches.
For full branch renewal, leave one fruiting shoot per site, and trim the upper part with medium to long cuts. The lower branch should be left with 2 to 3 buds to promote new growth.
Perennial renewal is another important technique. For vines with good fruiting at the end but poor growth at the base, redirect the growth to the vigorous shoots. For vines that have strong growth at the front but are bare at the back, update the branches to produce new fruit. For weak perennial vines, if they still have the ability to bear fruit, combine shortening and vertical training techniques to strengthen them and balance the tree’s energy. If the old vines are not producing, they should be completely removed to make way for healthier growth.