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In recent years, walnut grafting techniques have become a key approach for cultivating high-quality walnut varieties. The "indoor healing and planting colonization" method has gained popularity among growers. However, this technique still faces challenges such as a high healing rate (around 95%) but a relatively low survival rate (approximately 65%) during the nursery phase. To address these issues, the double-leaf grafting method has been introduced, which significantly improves the survival rate by over 15%.
First, selecting the right rootstock is essential. Choose 1 to 2-year-old walnut seedlings that are vigorous, healthy, with no pests or cracks, and have well-developed roots. The diameter of the rootstock should be between 0.8 cm and 1.5 cm.
Next, selecting the scion is equally important. Use mature, disease-free branches from early-maturing walnut varieties. These branches should be fully lignified and have a thickness ranging from 0.7 cm to 1.5 cm.
For equipment preparation, you'll need items like the WMZK-10 temperature controller, electric heating lines, fresh screened sawdust, corn silk fabric, agricultural film, thermometers, pruning shears, flat blades, bud grafting knives, baskets, and plastic ropes. The quantity required depends on the scale of your grafting project.
The grafting process involves several steps. First, cut the rootstock just above the root collar, removing long main and lateral roots. Bundle them in groups of twenty, ensuring the lower ends are aligned. For the scions, cut them to a length of 10–12 cm, keeping 2–3 buds intact. The pith should not exceed one-third of the scion’s diameter. Cut the top close to the bud and bundle them in groups of fifty. Soak both the rootstock and scion in a special plant growth regulator solution for two hours. Then, make a smooth cut on the scion and prepare the rootstock for grafting.
Afterward, insert the scion into the rootstock, align the layers, and secure the graft with corn silk fabric and plastic rope. Seal the exposed parts with melted wax. Place the grafted plants in a heated bed, using electric heating lines spaced 8–10 cm apart and filled with moist sawdust (55–60% moisture). Maintain a temperature of 30°C for 11–15 days, monitoring the temperature regularly and watering with warm water when the sawdust dries out.
Once healed, transfer the grafted plants to a warm and moist environment or directly into the nursery. Keep the temperature above 8°C and humidity above 80%. In spring, plant them in a 1.2-meter-wide bed, spacing them 20 cm apart (50–70 cm between rows), with about 5,550 plants per mu. Water thoroughly after planting and cover with double-layered mulch, leaving the graft area exposed.
After survival, remove any sprouts from the rootstock and prune the surviving shoots once they reach 5–10 cm in length, keeping only the strongest one as the main trunk. Insert a support pole (bamboo or wooden stick) when the trunk reaches 10 cm, and tie it with a plastic strip to promote straight growth. Regularly loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize, irrigate, and control pests to ensure healthy development.